Taste of Saigon

Chef Hoàng Tùng and his bold reinvention of Phở at Taste of Saigon by artLIVE

Annie Nguyen |

artLIVE – On the afternoon of October 6, as part of the Taste of Saigon by artLIVE festival, a workshop titled ‘Vietnamese Local Spices’ was held, led by Chef Hoàng Tùng from the renowned restaurant Å by TUNG.

Vietnamese Local Spices Workshop – part of Taste of Saigon by artLIVE
Vietnamese Local Spices Workshop – part of Taste of Saigon by artLIVE

A journey fueled by passion

For food connoisseurs, Å by TUNG is no stranger—a fine dining restaurant born from the vision and dedication of Executive Chef Hoàng Tùng. Once a young man studying in Northern Europe, Tùng made the bold decision to set aside his bachelor’s degree in international business to fully pursue his passion for gastronomy.

Beyond self-studying through books and the internet, he proactively sought unpaid positions at Michelin-starred restaurants across Northern Europe, eager to learn directly from culinary masters and hone his craft in world-class kitchens.

In 2018, Hoàng Tùng returned to Vietnam to realize his dream of opening his restaurant. In 2021, his beloved brainchild—Å by TUNG, formerly known as T.U.N.G Dining in Hanoi—made its official debut in the southern culinary scene. The letter Å, inspired by the unique Nordic alphabet, pays tribute to the region where his passion was ignited and where the foundations of his culinary philosophy were formed.

Å by TUNG quickly earned acclaim from both local and international diners, marking a major milestone in Hoàng Tùng’s journey: being named to Forbes Vietnam’s 30 Under 30 list. Most recently, the restaurant was proudly featured in the Michelin Guide Vietnam 2023.

Å by TUNG is honored to be featured in the Michelin Guide Vietnam 2023
Å by TUNG is honored to be featured in the Michelin Guide Vietnam 2023
Photo: Å by T.U.N.G

A vision to bring Vietnamese cuisine to the world

In today’s interconnected world, where cultures blend more seamlessly than ever, a strong sense of identity has become the key to affirming a nation’s value on the global stage -especially through its cuisine. For Chef Hoàng Tùng, preserving the authenticity of Vietnamese flavors is not just important but essential.

A moment from Chef Hoàng Tùng’s sharing at the workshop.
A moment from Chef Hoàng Tùng’s sharing at the workshop

Chef Hoàng Tùng has long been preoccupied with a pressing question: How can Vietnamese cuisine be known not only for its vibrant street food but also earn its rightful place on the global stage? For him, it’s about elevating the identity of Vietnamese cuisine, bringing the essence of fish sauce to fine dining tables around the world.

He shared during the workshop: “This is a golden opportunity to take Vietnamese cuisine internationally. Vietnam is among the world’s top exporters of spices like pepper, sophora flowers, and cinnamon. Our cuisine has immense potential, but to go further, Vietnamese chefs must learn the languages of the world to be able to tell the story of our unique and authentic culinary culture.”

However, one of the greatest challenges facing the development of Vietnamese cuisine today lies in ingredients and spices, the very soul of any dish. A lack of high-quality, consistent supply chains makes it difficult for chefs to maintain full control over the final product. Additionally, the prevailing situation in Vietnam means chefs often rely on seasonal or locally available ingredients, which can limit the customer experience. Diners don’t always get the best version of a dish, as its quality is subject to fluctuations in ingredient availability and freshness.

A refined take on culinary reinvention

At the Taste of Saigon by artLIVE flavor arts festival, Å by TUNG and Chef Hoàng Tùng proudly introduced a unique culinary interpretation of one of Vietnam’s most iconic dishes: Phở.

Often hailed as the soul of Vietnamese cuisine, phở is beloved for its tender rice noodles immersed in a delicately sweet, aromatic broth, a dish that evokes nostalgia for generations of Vietnamese people and leaves a lasting impression on international visitors.

However, in this special workshop, Å by TUNG reimagined phở through a contemporary lens, elevating it with modern techniques and presentation, leaving diners both surprised and captivated.

Phở reinvented in a bold, modern style
Phở reinvented in a bold, modern style

The rich, flavorful broth was simmered for nearly 24 hours before being transformed into a silky consommé jelly. Atop it lay a slice of premium beef, perfectly marbled with alternating ribbons of lean and fat. Visually reminiscent of polished marble, the dish offered a slow-unfolding umami experience that lingered delicately on the palate.

It was, in every sense, a symphony of Vietnamese ingredients, masterfully composed with the contemporary creativity of Chef Hoàng Tùng.

The Vietnamese Local Spices workshop became a gathering space for those who share a deep passion for Vietnamese cuisine. Beyond presenting a beautifully crafted and flavorful dish, the event offered a platform for Å by TUNG and Chef Hoàng Tùng to share their aspirations, bringing Vietnamese gastronomy to the global stage.

Photos: artLIVE

Tag: 2023/TOS
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